Indonesia volcanoes | Ijen | Bromo | Batur | volcanic peaks Indonesia | volcanoes in Indonesia
Volcanoes in Indonesia
Our journey through Indonesia was marked by volcanoes. There are about 400 of them in this island country and 100 are still active. Not bad! During one week we managed to complete three spectacular treks to volcanic peaks. I must admit, it was a challenge! Indonesians follow the rule that if you climb volcanoes, do it only at sunrise. Because of this, we were forced to get up at ridiculously early hours. And so, out of these four hundred peaks, we had to choose just three. Here are our achievements:
- Batur, located in the north Bali,
- Kawah Ijen, located in East Java,
- Bromo, also in the east of Java.
Location of selected volcanoes in Java and Bali
Batur on the paradise island of Bali
The main attraction that has been drawing tourists to the Kintamani for years is the still active stratovolcano, with a little bit ugly name Batur. It’s true that its height is only 1,717 m above sea level, but the views from the top are fantastic, like those from the highest mountains in the world. I’m not exaggerating, and I’ll even prove it to you!
*Batur is not the highest peak in Bali. Higher than Batur is Agung, which is just over 3,000 m above sea level. Actually, you can also climb the Agung volcano, but be careful – this peak is considered one of the most difficult and demanding peaks in Indonesia.
How to climb the Batur volcano?
Let’s start with the fact that you can only climb the volcano with a guide. A tourist can’t do it on his own. Or at least, he can’t do it legally.
Below I present the offer of one of the companies. According to the information in the graphic:
- The price varies depending on the number of people in the group (1 person – IDR 700,000 ~40,00 EUR). More people in the group = the price is lower.
- There is an additional fee of 150,000 IDR per person (about 8,50 EUR) if you want to go to the hot springs after trekking,
- The tour price includes private guide, drinking water, breakfast at the top of the mountain, flashlight, entry tickets, trekking poles (if needed),
- You can enter at any time, but the vast majority decide to enter in the morning to watch the sunrise. Trekking starts around 3:45 a.m. from your hotel or a previously agreed place,
- Trekking to the top takes about two hours. At the top you have as much time as you need – you will have time to eat breakfast, enjoy the views and take beautiful photos,
- The return time is around 9:00, and the way down is much faster than the way up 😉
What is trekking to a volcano like?
We decided to go in the morning. We had our alarm clocks set for 3:00 a.m. so that we had time to eat a fast breakfast and drink coffee from the bag. Asians consider trekking successful when you could admire the rising sun. In this case I’m not surprised, the views were spectacular!
We booked our trip through our hotel Oemah Batur. A nice, intimate hotel with a swimming pool and tasty breakfasts. It’s located on the way to the volcano, so we arranged a visit with a guide. After a short introduction and conversation, we set off.
The most difficult trekking
The entrance is short but intense. For lazy people, there is a possibility of partial entry by scooter, but I assume that you do not plan to use this option. Such services survive mainly thanks to lazy tourists from other parts of Asia.
From the halfway point, the path becomes increasingly steeper.On the route, it is easy to slip on small stones and trip over slightly larger ones. This is definitely a passage where you can get tired and out of breath – I know something about that 😉. Without letting anyone know, I was crawling uphill with the feeling that I was about to spit out my lungs. It was worth it – as the sun emerged on the horizon, it slowly revealed all the magic of the peak.
Read more about Kintamani region here.
Kawah Ijen – blue fires in Java
Kawah Ijen is actually a complex of active volcanoes located on the island of Java. In one of the craters, there is an such a lovely acidic sulfur volcanic lake. The water in it has a pH of less than 0.4 and a turquoise color. In addition to the aesthetic value of the volcano, it’s also known for the extraction of high-purity sulfur by miners. You may have heard about the hard work that miners do on Ijen, for example in the documentary Workingman’s Death by Michael Glawogger. A shocking document, but partly out of date, because currently miners practically no longer extract sulfur from the volcano.
Iyen is also known for its blue fires, a reaction of burning sulfur gas. The phenomenon looks spectacular, but officially you can no longer go down to the crater. Tours that include this attraction are still organized, but it is not fully permitted. This is mainly due to the steep descent and the presence of toxic gases. After descending into the crater, many tourists had health problems such as irritated throats, eyes and persistent coughs. In extreme cases, there was even a bloody cough.
How to trek the Ijen volcano?
The gateway to the Ijen volcano complex is the Banyuwangi town. This is where most organized (and private) trekking trips to the volcano begin.
We decided to take the easy way and buy a trip from our host. There were several reasons why we did not want to organize it ourselves:
- The route from Banyuwangi to the volcano takes about an hour by bus, by scooter the time gets longer. The road is winding, steep and you cover it at night without knowing the exact route.
- Remember, that the nights in these areas are cold, we were not prepared enough for a scooter trip, and renting a car was not worth it,
- The entry begins at night – around 3:00 a.m. – although of course you don’t have to start that early. Nevertheless, the sunrise on Ijen offers amazing views. Mountains covered in fog, a lake in a crater, and in the background the sun slowly rising above the horizon – this is a landscape that will remain in your memory forever.
PRICES:
The price of the group trip cost us IDR 400,000 per person (~ 22,70 EUR). On weekends, the price increases to IDR 450,000 (~25,50 EUR). There is a possibility to purchase a private tour.
The price includes:
- entrance fees,
- guide,
- gas masks,
- mineral water,
- flashlight,
- transportation
Return to the hotel is around 10:00 am.
What is trekking to a volcano like?
We were directed to a point where we received gas masks and flashlights. We also had some time there to get ready, use the toilet and drink something warm before the trek. At this point you also pay entrance tickets, but we missed this stage due to the organized tour. The guide took care of all organizational matters.
You will be provided with a mask, which I recommend (although it is not mandatory) to use mainly at higher altitudes. Its use depends largely on the wind direction and which direction the noxious volcanic gas is blowing. If the wind blows it towards the main path, your walk may become a bit troublesome. You will have to deal not only with dust, but also have to breathe a mixture of gases that will scratch your throat.
The stages of the march are variable experiences, sometimes more, sometimes less tiring. You encounter steep climbs that take more time, but also almost flat paths where you can enjoy a leisurely walk. Remember that you are moving in the dark, guided by your own flashlight. During the march, you have to be vigilant, especially for ex-miners who, after changing their profession, transport lazy tourists to the top of the volcano using special carts. You could say that they went from bad to worse, exchanging one hard job – sulfur extraction – for pulling people up the mountain, but for only slightly better pay.
At the top, you have enough time to take some photos, admire the panorama and drink coffee prepared by your guide. It’s cool at first, but as the sun rises, the temperature is higher.
It’s worth taking breaks for photo ops on the way down. You’re going up in total darkness, with no idea what spectacular views await you on the way back. Like these:
Bromo, Java – Indonesia’s showcase
The Bromo volcano is a masterpiece of Mother Nature. I associate its appearance with nature programs that Krystyna Czubówna (polish voiceover) used to read. For me personally, this volcano is a kind of symbol of fulfilling my childhood dreams. What was once unattainable for me, possible to see only on a glass screen, became a reality. I stood, I saw, I heard Bromo.
Bromo is a very active volcano that not long time ago claimed two victims during its eruption. It’s located in the Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park. From time to time, dust comes out of its interior, which halts air traffic at nearby airports. Occasionally, it also ejects rock debris that poses a danger to people. Has it affected tourism in any way? As much as possible, thanks to its increased activity, tourists pay huge amounts of money to see (and hear) the active volcano live. I ended up doing the same thing.
How to hike Bromo volcano?
Normally, you can see the volcano with the help of an agency, or try on your own. Finally, I negotiated cooperation with an agency for a slightly better price, they organized a private trip for us (1,000,000.00 IDR for 2 pax, or 59.00 EUR).
Once again I decided to take the easy way out, but I don’t regret this decision. Our visit was during an Indonesian holidays, and the number of tourists (mostly from Indonesia) was huge. We couldn’t stay in a nearby town by the volcano, Cemoro Lawang, because there were simply no available accommodations.The only ones available exceeded our budget (and by the way the prices were absurd, and the standard they offered was really poor). Finally we ended up in Putus – a nearby village, where our room was also far from perfect, but at least it was clean.
*Probolinggo Mafia
I must also mention the „Probolinggo Mafia”, which you may have heard of. If you read somewhere that these are just legends, someone is misleading you, probably because they have not had any contact with it. Well, we have.
Quick story
It all started in Banyuwangi, when our host offered to arrange transport to Bromo. We agreed, because the price was tempting, and what’s more, the transport was in a private car. During the transfer in Probolinggo, the driver (who barely spoke English) informed us about the break at the company’s headquarters. The route from the east of the island to Bromo always leads through this town.
An older man came out to us and started asking about where we spend the night and where to take us. Our hostel was not in Cemoro, but in a village before, called Putus, to which the man said that no one would take us. He started lying that there was no access to this village, that it will be extra four hours, which was of course absurd, because to get to Cemoro you had to go through Putus. He said not to trust maps, only him, because after all he lived here and knew better.
We argued, the man became aggressive. He took out his phone and started calling somewhere, saying that he would arrange accommodation for us in Cemoro Lawang. We firmly refused and said that let the new driver take us to Cemoro. The boss shouted for a while that no one would take us to Putus, tried to force us to change our accommodation (already paid for), but finally gave up.
In the car, without the boss, we showed the young driver where to take us and he did so without a word of protest. The boss tried to talk to me on the phone, but I ignored him and focused on contacting the new driver. Everything ended happily, but the situation was tense.
*Probolinggo Mafia – Other Tricks
This is just one of many examples of how Probolinggo scammers rip off tourists. Tourists are also caught at the train or bus station and charged huge money in exchange for further transport. Apparently, the town’s residents are afraid to speak up and are passive observers of the whole operation.
I’ve heard stories of dishonest drivers taking you not to the accommodation you point out to them, but to the one they have a deal with. Often, these places are far from the center, so it’s hard to get out and you end up paying the higher prices anyway.
Another common method for scammers is to get on a bus at a stop and tell you to pay for a ticket. They get out a moment before the ride, and right after that, therreal ticket seller comes in and actually sells the tickets. There are also thefts of documents, money and electronics.
This all sounds a bit „common”, after all, thefts happen everywhere. Here, the scale of the problem is large, and the scammers are really persistent. If you are aware of the techniques they use and don’t get fooled, the conversations start to heat up. The scammer becomes aggressive, often calling his friends for help to put pressure on the tourist. In extreme cases, there is physical violence, pulling, spitting.
My advice
- Be extremely vigilant and keep your cash and all documents with you – preferably in a fanny pack.
- Book accommodation with good reviews in advance – do not look for place beeing there. It’s best to contact the host of the accommodation and ask him for advice, tips and any help. An honest host will always try to help you get to his place safely (he may organize transport, inform about the real prices of services),
- Look for transportation on Grab, Gojek or DriveIn (Uber/Bolt substitutes)
- Be firm, but polite. If the situation requires, lie – lying to cheaters is not a sin, and your welfare and safety are most important.
What is volcano trekking look like?
The first stage is usually the King Kong Hill viewpoint. From here you can admire the volcanic mountains emerging from the darkness. The view is, in short, phenomenal. It was worth the wait, it was worth the cold and walking sleepy for the rest of the day.
At the top you will find several Warungs (restaurants) where you can have a hot tea in the morning and eat something to start the day. The nights and mornings here are very cold, so I advise you to be well prepared. Despite wearing the warmest clothes we had with us, we still froze badly.
The second stage is the descent to the Widodari Valley, where you have a unique opportunity to take a photo session in beautiful natural surroundings. The entire landscape is so amazing that I enjoyed the views for a looooong time after the session. Finally, the driver started to rush us to get there before the biggest crowd.
Easiest trekking
After leaving the viewpoint and having a spectacular photo session in the open space of the valley near the volcano, your driver will take you to the parking lot from where you will start your trekking to the volcano.
Calm down – you walk mostly on flat ground, and then you climb the volcano up crowded stairs. This is definitely the fastest and easiest way to get there. If you don’t feel like walking, you can ride a horse for an additional fee, but let me leave this information without unnecessary comments.
After reaching the top, you will be rewarded with a view of the terrifying and extremely picturesque crater. The volcanic landscape of ash and black sands seemed to come from another world. A terrifying, rumbling sound emanates from the crater, adding an additional mysteriousness to the whole scene.
There are barriers at the top, but only for the first few meters. If you go any further, you are only separated from falling into the crater by your common sense and coordination. The photos may not show it, but if you slip on the edge, you probably have little chance of rescue.
Summary – Volcanoes in Indonesia
If I had to recommend just one of these volcanoes to someone, it would be Bromo. Its iconic nature, exceptional activity and the almost mystical atmosphere around it, means that it was experienced with the greatest emotions. Its activity combined with the picturesque landscape creates a unique work of nature, enchanting both with its power and raw beauty. I have no doubt that anyone who sees this volcano with their own eyes will be delighted by its aura.
I would put Ijen in second place, for its uniqueness, picturesqueness and multi-colour. Well, I don’t know exactly why, but when I think about it, two more adjectives come to mind: creative and capricious. Creative, I guess, because the volcano and the entire area are a mixture of so many seemingly contradictory phenomena and landscapes, somehow twisted to create a fitting whole. Mother Nature definitely showed her creativity here, and capriciousness at the same time, given its geological features and the atmosphere around it.
The last, but still magical and spectacular – the Batur volcano. I appreciate it for its heavenly panorama and the demanding ascent, which was a real challenge for me. These views have to be earned, but the reward is beautiful.